What’s On in the Ariège

Tarascon-sur-Ariège · about fifteen minutes

The nearest town, with its markets and its cafés

Ax-les-Thermes · about twenty minutes

A spa town in the mountains, with skiing at Ax 3 Domaines in winter: about twenty minutes to the gondola in the town, or half an hour to drive up to the slopes

Niaux · about twenty minutes

Painted caves, and one of the few places in Europe where you can still see the original prehistoric paintings

The Plateau de Beille · up the château’s road, about twenty-five minutes

The first Nordic ski area in the Pyrénées, at 1,800 metres: cross-country skiing on some forty kilometres of trails, snowshoeing, sledging, and sled-dog rides with the mushers of Angaka. High pastures and forest walks in summer

Foix · about half an hour

The castle of the Counts of Foix, above the old town

Andorra · about an hour

Up the valley past Ax to the border at Pas de la Casa: shops open almost every day of the year, and the Grandvalira ski area in winter

Mirepoix · just under an hour

A medieval square of timbered houses and covered arcades, one of the best brocante towns in the region, and a grand market every Monday morning

Montségur · about three quarters of an hour

The Cathar castle on its peak, and the last stand of the Cathars

Les Bains du Couloubret · Ax-les-Thermes, about twenty minutes

Roman-style thermal baths fed by the hottest springs in the Pyrénées: indoor and outdoor pools, a caldarium and a frigidarium, hammam, sauna and massages. Open all year, apart from two short closures

On the river · about ten minutes

Canoe, kayak or paddle-board on the Ariège with Waterploof, from the lake at Sinsat: with a guide or on your own, six or twelve kilometres downriver, and a minibus back. Every day from May to October

Canyoning · Tarascon and Ax-les-Thermes

Guided canyons with Wesh Canyon at Tarascon, or Adret Canyon’s hot-water canyon, which meets in Ax and runs at Thuès-entre-Valls in the Pyrénées-Orientales, more than an hour further on

Fly fishing · Larcat, a few minutes away

A day on the water with a guide from Hook A Lip

Caves and prehistory · about twenty minutes

Beyond Niaux, the caves of Bédeilhac and Lombrives, and the Parc de la Préhistoire at Tarascon

Les Bains du Couloubret · Ax-les-Thermes, about 20 minutes

Roman-style thermal baths filled with natural spring water at 33 to 38°C. Inside, a glass-roofed pool ringed with columns, with jets and bubble seats, a hot bath, a cold plunge and a thermal steam room. Outside, two pools with views of the mountains. Upstairs, for over-sixteens, saunas and a hammam. Open all year; children from five. Bring your own towel, and leave silver jewellery at home, as the water darkens it.

acqs.com

The Bassin des Ladres · Ax-les-Thermes

A medieval stone basin in the middle of Ax where everyone stops to soak their feet in the hot spring water. Free, every day, all year. Test the water first; it is hot.

A thermal spa half-day · Ax-les-Thermes

For a taste of a real thermal cure, the Thermes d’Ax offer a three-hour “Découverte Aqua” session for adults: three treatments, then the thermal pool, jacuzzis, hammam and sauna. There is also an after-sport version for skiers and cyclists. Booking needed; closed on Sundays.

acqs.com

Thermes d’Ussat-les-Bains · about 20 minutes

A small spa in a park near Tarascon, newly renovated, with single treatments and massages. Telephone before you go, as opening dates vary.

thermes-ussat.fr

Caldea · Andorra, about an hour and a half

See Andorra, below.

Ax 3 Domaines · about 20 minutes to the gondola, half an hour to drive up

The valley’s main ski resort: 80 kilometres of runs between 1,400 and 2,400 metres. The gondola leaves from the centre of Ax-les-Thermes, so you can leave the car in town. Ski schools, a snowpark, sledging and snow-tubing. Early December to late March.

ax.ski

Plateau de Beille · up the château’s road, about 25 minutes

Our own snow: a high plateau at 1,800 metres with forty kilometres of cross-country trails, snowshoe routes and sledging. The Angaka village there runs dog-sled and sleigh rides and night snowshoe walks. Mid-December to late March.

beille.fr · angaka.com

Smaller resorts

Ascou-Pailhères (about 45 minutes), a friendly forest resort above Ax · Le Chioula (about 40 minutes), quiet Nordic trails and dog sledding · Goulier (about 45 minutes), one of the smallest resorts in the Pyrenees, with no queues.

ascou.ski · chioula.fr · goulier-neige.fr

After skiing

Wood-fired Nordic hot tubs and a sauna at the Bains de Bonascre, on the slopes at Ax (ski season, booking needed), or the thermal baths in Ax itself (see the hot springs).

Getting there · about an hour

Up the valley through Ax and Mérens, then over the pass to Pas de la Casa on the border. From there the road climbs over the Port d’Envalira, the highest road in the Pyrenees, or through the Envalira tunnel down to Andorra la Vella, about an hour and a half from the château. Bring a passport or ID card: Andorra is outside the EU. From November to May carry snow chains unless the car has winter tyres.

Shopping

Low taxes have made Andorra a shopping trip for generations: Pas de la Casa right at the border, and the long shopping street through Andorra la Vella and Escaldes. Shops are open most days until 8pm.

Caldea · Escaldes-Engordany

The largest thermal spa in southern Europe, in a glass cathedral with an eighty-metre spire. Indoor and outdoor lagoons are fed by the local hot springs, including one with a glass floor over the river. Open every day; book ahead, and only on caldea.com.

Grandvalira

The largest ski area in the Pyrenees, with 215 kilometres of runs. The Pas de la Casa side is about an hour from the château. Early December to early April.

grandvalira.com

In summer

Walk the Madriu-Perafita-Claror valley, a UNESCO World Heritage landscape with no roads, or visit the small Romanesque churches of Sant Joan de Caselles and Santa Coloma and the old stone parliament house, Casa de la Vall.

visitandorra.com